The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence at the V&A

Ceremonial treasures set with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. Luminous rock crystal, intricately carved jade, and mother-of-pearl from the shell of the green turban sea snail. These are amongst the dazzling treasures on display at The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence at the V&A, a celebration of the extraordinary artistic achievements of the ‘Golden Age’ of the Mughal court (1560-1660). This era, defined by a cosmopolitan and internationalist culture, saw an empire of immense wealth foster a creative outpouring of fine craftmanship. It was initiated by emperor Akbar who established new imperial workshops, starting a tradition of luxury industry that was carried on by his successors Jahangir and Shah Jahan.

The intricacy of the bejewelled objects in this exhibition – such as a ceremonial spoon chased in gold, or a gold dagger adorned with over two thousand precious stones – is astonishing. Equally entrancing however are the pieces in which nature shines unadorned. Two huge stones for example, an emerald and a spinel – made to hang from a necklace or adorn a Turban – now stand alone. The 110 carat Colombian emerald bead, carved with a classic Mughal floral motif, is suggestive of the empire as a garden of paradise. Across the exhibition many of the gems are left in their uneven natural shapes – cultivating a slight irregularity that contributes to the organic beauty of many of the pieces, which, in their masterly craftsmanship, seem to retain the life of the natural world.

Whilst the exhibition includes architecture, with an installation on the Taj Mahal, it is the unexpected and charming small details that are the highlight: a knuckle guard sweeps up into the head of a horse, a hilt curves down to twin gold and ruby leopards. A fine crystal cup is laced with gold mounts that hold blue flashes of kingfisher feather in place, as well as precious stones painted with miniscule portraits – far smaller than a thumb nail – that depict the ‘moon-faced’ beauty of Persian literature.

Many of these luxury pieces were unveiled at celebrations such as Nowruz (Persian New Year) or the Birthday Weighing of the Emperor, when members of the court exchanged gifts. Throughout the subsequent centuries they have been scattered across the globe. One item, a mother-of-pearl shield, entered the armoury of Ferdinando I de’Medici in Florence – and has remained there since, being lent to this exhibition by the Bargello Museum. Others have come from private collections, such as the al-Sabah in Kuwait and the al Thani in Saudi Arabia. They are brought together for the first time in this historic exhibition. We recommend a visit.

The V&A Museum
The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture, and Opulence
until 5 May 2025
Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL
vam.ac.uk